'Top Chef Masters,' Episode 2: The 'Lost' Dinner
Contestants
Graham Elliot Bowles
Graham Elliot, Chicago
Known for mixing high and low cuisine, probably most famously in his Pop Rocks–dusted foie gras dish. Also known for becoming the youngest 4-star chef in the U.S.
Charity: American Heart Association
Wylie Dufresne
WD~50, New York City
A proponent of "molecular gastronomy," Dufresne is known for inventive dishes such as his signature eggs Benedict—short tubes of puréed egg yolk served with English muffin crumb–crusted cubes of hollandaise.
Charity: Autism Speaks
Suzanne Tracht
Jar, Los Angeles, and Tracht's, Long Beach, California
Known for her pot roast, which she teaches people how to make in twice-monthly classes.
Charity: JFS/SOVA Community Food and Resource Program
Elizabeth Falkner
Citizen Cake and Orson, San Francisco
One of the most famous pastry and dessert chefs in the U.S. and winner of Bon Appétit's 2006 Pastry Chef of the Year. Known for her teetering, spiraling, architecturally stunning desserts.
Charity: The Edible Schoolyard
The Quickfire Challenge: Vending Machine Cuisine
A rehash of the infamous Season 2 vending-machine amuse-bouche challenge, in which contestants had to make a bite-size hors d'oeuvre using crap from vendos. With five seasons of the original Top Chef* to draw on it's interesting to see how producers riff—like bringing back contestants from the first instance of this challenge, including Ilan Hall, whose vending effort Dufresne rated low as guest judge.
WARNING: SPOILERS AHEAD
Bowles: Candy bars, ham and cheese sandwich, orange soda. "I need to win the entire competition. I get s*** all the time from people for using these type of ingredient in my cuisine." Making: Tuna salad with lime-juice-pickled shallots and orange soda frothed and flavored with lime leaf, lemongrass, and ginger.
Dusfresne: Chooses potato chips, peanuts, ham and cheese sandwiches. Making: Grilled cheese sandwich with crispy ham Dr Pepper reduction with beer nuts.
Tracht: Fritos. Making: Fried shallot rings dusted with Frito flour, with reduced Dr Pepper aioli.
Falkner: Dr Pepper and beef jerky. Making: Dr Pepper–braised beef jerky with orange juice–lemon–horseradish ice cream.
Interesting. The vending machines are generic and not heavily branded, as I expected they would be. (Remember the Glad wall of original Top Chef fame?) Although the use of Dr Pepper from three of the four chefs leaves you wondering of the MD of sodas isn't a sponsor of this episode. (Scratch that—a commercial for Dr Pepper during the episode tells me that it's probably no coincidence the cola's being cooked with here.)
Winner: Tracht. She gets the full five stars. An upset of sorts for Bowles and Dufresne, whose experimentation and deconstruction of familiar dishes seemed to give them a leg up going in to this challenge.
The Elimination Challenge
Too bad the chefs didn't have Dharma Initiative bags like this one when they went shopping at Whole Foods. Photograph from TomorrowGirl on Flickr
Hey! Isn't Bravo owned by NBC Universal? So why is ABC show Lost getting cross-promotion here? The Elimination Challenge is Lost-related. The chefs must cook "island ingredients" without the aid of the Top Chef pantry, instead relying on a list of Darma Initiative–approved canned and preserved foods. They're cooking for writers and producers of the hit show.
Wylie: "I've never seen Lost. I'm a little lost right now." You and me both, Wylie. I've never seen it, either. (OK. I lied. I've seen a few episodes of Season 1 and then stopped watching in frustration. I just don't get Lost.)
Bowles: Cooks a maki roll with tuna and dehydrated pineapple; tuna niçoise; and tuna à la plancha—"a culinary tour around the globe."
Dufresne: Cooks roasted chicken with poached egg; beets with dried corn; and pantain purée. He gets out the immersion circulator to cook the eggs and will apparently riff on the chicken and the egg. "Humor and whimsy is important," he says.
Tracht: Cooks risotto with uni, clams, and prawns; wild boar strip with oyster-beer sauce; and a mango-corn salad. "I'm going to incorporate as much as I can from the table."
Falkner: Cooks ancho-beer-braised boar loin; coffee-scented poached boar loin sous vide; and yam-papaya pudding.
The Verdict
Wow. The chefs really had to cook for a buttload of people. And the folks from Lost look like total nerds. But they love Top Chef, so they can't be all that bad—they claim to talk about it at the water cooler on Thursday mornings. "There's been a big dip in quality of Lost since Top Chef, actually," a writer who looks like David Cross says.
Winner: If you didn't see the spoiler going around earlier today, let it be known that Suzanne Tracht cleaned up handily. I loved watching the mild rivalry between Bowles and Dufresne (and it seemed like the show might have been playing up that aspect to move things along and throw in a red herring), but I was happy that Tracht won. She was sort of unassuming and soft spoken and quietly kicked ass while the other chefs hogged the spotlight. I admit that I didn't know much about her going in to this episode, but I really like her. I bet that pot roast class of hers will be packed for months to come now.
What did you think of the outcome?
Belated Observations
You know, I actually missed the premiere episode of TCM (I caught up via online recaps), but I have to say I really like it. Because all the chefs are peers and seem to respect each other—with just the hint of friendly rivalry, like that between Bowles and Dufresne—there's none of the trumped-up tension and bullshit that accompanies the original Top Chef. It was a pleasure watching chefs at the top of their game cook some highly inventive dishes under pressure.
I also thought Kelly Choi was fine as host. She's been taking a beating here on SE in comments as well as on other blogs, but I don't see what's so bad about her. People have pointed to her physique and questioned whether she actually eats and/or enjoys food, and to that I say, sure she's skinny, but I've known lots of rail-thin people who are hearty eaters and just have fab metabolisms (and I hate them for it). And I'm sure she likes food—otherwise why pursue it as part of a TV career? As an emcee to merely move things along, she's perfectly adequate—the show's editing takes care of most of the forward motion, anyway.
Anyway, it's been fun recapping tonight. See you next time!
*Since we're going to be talking about Top Chef Masters and the original Top Chef I think we're going to need some abbreviations. TCM is obvious, but for Top Chef I've been toying OTC (Original Top Chef), TCO (Top Chef Original), or, a nod to Trek, TCTOS (Top Chef: The Original Series). Which do you prefer? I'm leaning toward TCTOS.
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35 Comments:
Kelly Choi is irritating and doesn't seem to care about the food, just about smiling freakishly huge for the camera. At least Padma tries and will state her opinion, even if it doesn't matter what she thinks. Besides that I am enjoying this much more than seasons of regular Top Chef, of which I've only watched the most recent. Night and day between the petty bickering and sloppy flirting of that cast and the good-natured rivalries and professionalism of the established chefs.
VerySmallAnna at 2:12AM on 06/18/09
TCO and TCM. Keep it simple! Good recap and I appreciate the media/marketing-savvy observations and commentary!
Jsayet at 7:24AM on 06/18/09
I'm enjoying TC Masters. This is going to be really tough to win. Do you know the remaining first round pairings? I'm going with a Keller Besh finale...
http://thechowfather.blogspot.com/
The Chowfather at 7:34AM on 06/18/09
I like Top Chef Masters. Lasts nights episode gave me a great idea for a spin-off, put Graham Elliot Bowles and Wylie Dufresne on a show together. I enjoyed watching the two compete yet, honestly enjoy and respect each other.
I know there is a lot of cooking left to go on the show but right now I would have a hard time betting against Suzanne Tracht to win the whole thing.
cisdmsl1 at 9:00AM on 06/18/09
As for the friendly rivalry thing, I think it has to do with the fact that these Master's aren't in the show to "make it". They are already successful. So it'd be AWESOME to win the show, but they aren't banking on it to make a name for themselves. So, it's less daunting when they have to take big risks or do something crazy.
Since they are all in the industry already, there's some mutual respect they can share instead of acting all "I MUST BEAT YOU AND PROVE MYSELF"
engmcmuffin at 9:12AM on 06/18/09
I thought Bowles and Dufresne had an easy camaraderie going last night - Suzanne's "Mutt and Jeff" line has me thinking there was even more we didn't see. I also thought the short bit at the end, showing Elizabeth making cookies for the chefs (and Wylie asking if they couldn't just microwave them?) was cute. Overall, I enjoy TCM - it's a nice diversion after a long day.
studyzone at 9:20AM on 06/18/09
I usually despise it when TC uses gimmicks like cooking for kids or out of a vending machine, but the TCM episode last night was good despite the gimmick. I was impressed by all 4 contestants, and I thought it was a better show than the 1st episode. Looking forward to more competition of this caliber.
Remander at 9:31AM on 06/18/09
i just loved seeing the people from lost...now there's a dinner party i would want to be invited as guest! i would needle them all night about the show-lol.
gastronomeg at 9:54AM on 06/18/09
I'm enjoying TCM -- I love seeing what these amazing chefs can make under unique constraints, and I really enjoy seeing their professionalism and joy in the kitchen -- but I do find Kelly Choi annoying -- all she does is bob her head and smile and I don't think she's actually eaten anything on camera (unlike Padma, who is also quite thin, but clearly relishes her food). Kelly Choi needs to show a little more personality, imo.
gbania at 10:24AM on 06/18/09
stop hating on lost! we don't all look like nerds.
I'm quite dreamy ;)
ahhhh, but i love this show, thanks for the recap!
in dubious batter at 10:24AM on 06/18/09
It's my idea of perfect summer filler--since these chefs are well established, they are clearly having a lot of fun with the challenges and we're spared from the silly drama Bravo tends to favor. It's light years better than The Next Food Network Star, yet isn't as intense as TCO, all which makes for great television, and to me it's the best show on TV right now.
ElizabethS at 10:31AM on 06/18/09
Anybody else notice that all of the chefs last night prepared amuses that were not amuses. Every single judge in the amuse competitions in TC would have called out a chef for the dishes being too large, i.e. not amuses. Funny how the judging seemed to skip over this...
pksmash at 12:33PM on 06/18/09
Try watching Lost again, but from the VERY FIRST episode. It's impossible to get into it by just watching a few episodes here and there. It's like a movie- even the best movie ever made you're not going to get into by watching minutes 38-51.
DanielJ at 12:35PM on 06/18/09
@pksmash: Good point. You're absolutely right, and I noticed that while watching but then failed to note it in the recap above. Surprised, too, that the judges didn't mention it. Maybe they liked the value. ;)
@DanielJ: Yeah. I did like what I saw. Started watching a few eps in to Season 1. What frustrated me was the 1 step forward 2 steps back nature of the show, which I suppose is what many people love. It got frustrating having to wait till the next week. Maybe now that I can watch them ALL AT ONCE on DVD I'd like it more. But at this point, I'm afraid that would be a HUGE time suck.
Adam Kuban at 12:45PM on 06/18/09
But OH what a time-suck!
DanielJ at 1:02PM on 06/18/09
I'm really enjoying TCMasters, seeing them perform under the weight of their reputations. It must be such a ego thump not to perform well. But I find Kelly Choi really distracting. She wears a ridiculous amount of make up and she is thin to the point of looking unhealthy. I feel sorry for any woman in the entertainment industry because we are such critics of their physiques ("She's too...fat, thin, tall, short, large breasted, fat ankled, etc, etc.), but I find her skinnyness when hosting a cooking show to be almost insulting. They couldn't find someone who looks like she actually eats food?
AngelinaL at 1:16PM on 06/18/09
Maybe since all the amuses were large, there was no way to really dock points for that. I echo previous commenters on the point that this is kind of a fun thing for the chefs, but they are all clearly competing hard against the other chefs.
dbdtron at 1:21PM on 06/18/09
The hot rumor is that Susan Boyle is going to host the next series so people will stop complaining about good looking, physically fit, women hosting the show.
dineomite at 2:03PM on 06/18/09
Just a request from a Canadian viewer not to put spoilers in the titles of these recaps - we don't get Top Chef Masters until the fall. This one was no problem to ignore but I've had TC spoiled before in my RSS feed.
Thanks :)
artychoke at 4:08PM on 06/18/09
OK. You had me worried for a minute there, artychoke, that I had put a spoiler in. We try to be very careful not to do that. And we put the big, all-caps, bold warning before the "jump" on the site itself. In RSS, I try to make sure the spoiler info is far enough down from that warning that you can stop reading before you scroll to it.
Adam Kuban at 4:14PM on 06/18/09
I'm really loving this show too. It's super fun to watch, and I find myself smiling through the whole thing. The chefs are so fun and good-natured with each other. You should go back and watch week one, Adam -- the Hubert Keller scenes were absolutely priceless.
(and count me as a vote for TCTOS)
Jen Maiser at 6:35PM on 06/18/09
I am American of Asian descent, and people thought I was dangerously skinny, too! I ate all the time, and I still couldn't gain weight. Once I hit my mid-20s, my metabolism slowed and now I can't even lose 5 lbs. even when I have the stomach flu. Therefore, I don't find Kelly Choi skinny at all or unqualified to be a host. If anything, I agree with the other commenters about wishing she'd state her opinion more. Perhaps she has stuff to say, but was edited out in favor of what the masters and the judges have to say. I'd love to see the very knowledgeable Alton Brown as a host, but he's on a competing network.
louanne at 6:51PM on 06/18/09
Yep - love Top Chef Masters - think the first episode started off a little slow, but last night more than made up for it. Watching Wylie lose it was pretty priceless - chaotic madman on the loose in Top Chef Kitchen!
And the f-bombs...wow. who knew?! given his deadpan judges profile on his prior appearances in Top Chef, it was a real treat to see him in the kitchen doing his thing. Albeit, crazily...
Love TCM since I do believe it's a pretty humbling experience for the chefs - makes them seem more human to us mere mortals.
~Top Chef Examiner
YummyInTheCity at 6:54PM on 06/18/09
This makes for two well-run contests in a row. I very much look forward to seeing Chef Tracht compete again in the future.
Grumpy Old Man at 9:01PM on 06/18/09
@verysmallanna, my take on it is that Kelly Choi isn't allowed/encouraged to talk about the food. Maybe because they don't want to add fuel to the "who the hell is she and what does she know about food" fire? Just a thought. And I am also one of those rail think hated on Asian people too, and I love food. When I was pregnant, people would implicitly accuse me of starving my unborn children because I didn't show until about 7 months. We freaks exist.
i8alot at 4:01PM on 06/19/09
I'm really liking TCM. TCTOS just makes me angry with all the drama. I find it hard to watch. But this episode and the last were fun. It's nice seeing people being competitive without being jerks about it.
I can't say that I don't like the host since she leaves absolutely no impression on me. She's got to bring out some personality.
The cookie moment at the end was really sweet.
gingercookiewithlime at 6:47PM on 06/19/09
I agree with pksmash. None were amuses for the quickfire, especially the winner who made frito shallot rings. She would have been berated for that on real TC .Also were there shallots in that vending machine?? I think not. Everyone else used more than 1 vending machine ingredient. (Not counting the obviously obligatory dr pepper ingredient.)
Just not in love with the TC Masters, the judges are sycophants and the chefs show the ennui of people who already have their success. Bit boring if you ask me. Sorry.
sunshine6 at 3:49AM on 06/20/09
Although, I did like the cookie thing....
sunshine6 at 3:50AM on 06/20/09
I loved this episode, much more than the first one. I thought the "Lost" theme worked very well, and the food seemed amazing. The chefs all hated the constraints - welcome to the Top Chef universe, guys! - but they are all geniuses of cuisine, and proved it. The "rivalry" between Dufresne and Bowles seemed genuine to me, not forced or artificial - they're friends but they're also pros in a very competitive world.
To be honest, part of the joy of regular Top Chef to me is to see the tension build up from week to week, as a favorite screws up and is PYKAG'd or an underdog suddenly starts to shine. We can't get that here; although since these are all culinary superstars, there are no favorites or underdogs. But still, that's a big part of Top Chef. Still, seeing established names struggle with limited time and resources is a lot of fun. I'd love to see Colicchio have to cope with the same limitations of the people he judges week to week.
tomfodw at 9:21AM on 06/22/09
I watched this episode on a weekend when I was catching up on various TV shows and had watched the Lost episode of Ace of Cakes earlier in the day. It was accidentally a Lost-filled foodie TV day!
(I didn't know that TCM would be Lost-themed.)
I preferred episode 2 of TCM over episode 1 but I think that's because I just didn't understand the concept the first time and was expecting it to be more like TC.
I enjoyed this episode a lot. The challenges were fun. The chefs are hilarious. The dynamic all of the chefs (and of course Dufresne and Bowles) was fantastic. I liked Elizabeth's cookie baking initiative. She's adorable with charisma and an awesome smile. I think she'd be really cool to hang out with over drinks.
Overall, I'm enjoying the concept more than I thought I would. It's cool to see former guest judges in the hot seat. Dufresne was under the fire this week! Hubert Keller last week mentioned his new found understanding for past competitors that he's judged. I think it was him who said that every judge should be on the other side (or something to that effect).
In the end, they're all winners because of the experience and the donations to their charities.
Kelly Choi makes me wonder if there's a guideline or standard in TV broadcasting that states that female reality TV hosts must be vapid. That said, it's Choi's first time hosting this show so I can cut her some slack.
I'm not a fan of Padma either but her personality has somewhat emerged as TC has progressed. She seems more comfortable with her role now than she did in her first season. It's possible that Choi isn't vapid in real life and I apologize for referring to her as such, but that's how she seems.
CanadianFoodieGirl at 12:58PM on 06/22/09
Choi is not vapid - I was friends w/her when I was younger, met her in Korea- she's intelligent, well-spoken and when I knew her very sweet with a good heart and I don't ever remember thinking she didn't eat. (I tend to eat a lot so I'm aware when others don't.)
I understand where the comments are coming from - she does come across as cold in this show, which is a shame but I also thought she wasn't allowed to give comments based upon the first show where she did eat the food with the judges but then immediately turned to the others and asked for feedback.
Just wanted to give my two cents...and disclaimer: I'm not even friends w/her now - we lost touch, I'm just saying I knew her back before and she was extremely humble and very nice...
pbj88 at 3:04PM on 06/22/09
and I agree - I love TCM way more than TCO (my vote) because of the element of fun rivalry! These chefs come across as so much fun and nice. Leaves a much better taste in my mouth...
pbj88 at 3:12PM on 06/22/09
I tried to watch this episode but in Mountain time it comes on at 11:00 on a weeknight and living in a furnished place on a temp basis, I've no way of taping it. Why does it come on so late?
tdl1501 at 12:16AM on 06/23/09
@pbj88 I sort of figured that she's not vapid in real life. Also, after I wrote that I read a blog entry of hers on the Bravo website and she reads more intelligently. This isn't the first time that I've read the writings of a female TV host and noticed the disconnect between how they're portrayed on TV (often vapid, ditzy etc.) vs. how they appear in writing (often intelligent, witty, with personality). I remember reading Teresa Strasser's website years ago and being both shocked and impressed with her intelligence and writing experience. She seemed like such an airhead on TLC's While You Were out.
I guess the challenge then, is to convey a host's personality on TV and not make them into airheads (there might be a thesis in gender studies in there some where).
I revise my above statement from "Kelly Choi makes me wonder if there's a guideline or standard in TV broadcasting that states that female reality TV hosts must be vapid." to "Kelly Choi makes me wonder if there's a guideline or standard in TV broadcasting that states that female reality TV hosts must be portrayed as vapid."
CanadianFoodieGirl at 12:22PM on 06/23/09
Actually, I find PADMA to be way more annoying than Kelly Choi. I'm not there to see the host, I'm there to see the chefs. The more the host can be in the background, the better. Padma has spun her host duties into a series of commericials and endorsements, one of them for a hamburger that I wouldn't give my dog. "Food porn" indeed!
Donnamarie at 10:58AM on 06/24/09