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From Slice

Veloce Pizzeria, East Village, Manhattan

Real good review Adam. I am going to give this place a another shot. I thought the slices were tasty the last time I went, but too much moisture pooled in the middle of the slice.

Next time I will try the whole pies like you did.

From Slice

Una Pizza Napoletana: Anthony Mangieri Not Necessarily San Francisco-bound

"I've been working making bread and pizza, first in Jersey, then in New York City, since 1993, and though I loved doing both things in both places, I am going to take a little break."

Those 4 day work weeks are killer!

From Slice

'New York' Magazine Pizza Extravaganza

If he would have simply boasted about how he feels his pizza is the best I would take no issue with his comments.

But he somehow felt it necessary to impugn the integrity of all his competitors. Say what you want about Keste in terms of it's product, but Caporuscio is commited to the Platonic idea of producing a pure Neapolitan pie and ultimately this is the reason why I believe he does not produce the best pizza in NYC. He is so committed to the VPN dogma that he will not take a step back and consider making adjustments to his food or his practices.

I believe he is stubborn and a true believer in what he is doing and that was the reason he was asked to leave his prior venture (A Mano) in NJ. When asked to change the way he made pizza he refused and parted company with ownership and struck out on his own. These traits are not the earmarks of a cynical money grubber, but they are of someone that has a profound commitment to what he is doing.

There are plenty of ways to pay your dues, everyone has a different path and it doesn't necessarily encompass trying to make pizza in your parents fireplace like a moron.

Anthony Mangieri the Martyr of Modern Artisanal pizza movement. The whole angry young man act is wearing thin.

From Slice

Di Fara Raising Slice Prices to $5; Will Close Tuesdays in Addition to Mondays

Top Tier is relative I guess, especially with the lack of truly great slice places in Manhattan, but I will use one Manhattan place as an example. Pizza 33 serves a respectable Margarita slice that is now $3.75 just below the $4.00 mark that Di Fara had established. They use San Marzano tomatoes and a quality fresh Mozzarella. They may not run out tomorrow and publish a price increase over what Di Fara has done, but I am sure that with the next up surge in dairy, or other ingredients they will use it as a pretext to bring their prices closer to the $5.00 price point that Dom has now established. Others places that are spending more on their ingredients will follow suit as well. The places that are already using shitty Sysco products will keep their prices the same, because cheapness is their only strength.

Moving on to whole pies... how long do you think it will be before Mangieri at Una Pizza will be raising the price of his Pizza's to the $30.00 level? He already has gone on record as stating that he feels his pizza are worth $50.00 if the market would bear it. This might be hyperbole on his part, but I do not think his ego would allow him to stay at a "paltry" $26.00 price point for very long.

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From Slice

Veloce Pizzeria, East Village, Manhattan

Real good review Adam. I am going to give this place a another shot. I thought the slices were tasty the last time I went, but too much moisture pooled in the middle of the slice.

Next time I will try the whole pies like you did.

From Slice

Una Pizza Napoletana: Anthony Mangieri Not Necessarily San Francisco-bound

"I've been working making bread and pizza, first in Jersey, then in New York City, since 1993, and though I loved doing both things in both places, I am going to take a little break."

Those 4 day work weeks are killer!

From Slice

'New York' Magazine Pizza Extravaganza

If he would have simply boasted about how he feels his pizza is the best I would take no issue with his comments.

But he somehow felt it necessary to impugn the integrity of all his competitors. Say what you want about Keste in terms of it's product, but Caporuscio is commited to the Platonic idea of producing a pure Neapolitan pie and ultimately this is the reason why I believe he does not produce the best pizza in NYC. He is so committed to the VPN dogma that he will not take a step back and consider making adjustments to his food or his practices.

I believe he is stubborn and a true believer in what he is doing and that was the reason he was asked to leave his prior venture (A Mano) in NJ. When asked to change the way he made pizza he refused and parted company with ownership and struck out on his own. These traits are not the earmarks of a cynical money grubber, but they are of someone that has a profound commitment to what he is doing.

There are plenty of ways to pay your dues, everyone has a different path and it doesn't necessarily encompass trying to make pizza in your parents fireplace like a moron.

Anthony Mangieri the Martyr of Modern Artisanal pizza movement. The whole angry young man act is wearing thin.

From Slice

Di Fara Raising Slice Prices to $5; Will Close Tuesdays in Addition to Mondays

Top Tier is relative I guess, especially with the lack of truly great slice places in Manhattan, but I will use one Manhattan place as an example. Pizza 33 serves a respectable Margarita slice that is now $3.75 just below the $4.00 mark that Di Fara had established. They use San Marzano tomatoes and a quality fresh Mozzarella. They may not run out tomorrow and publish a price increase over what Di Fara has done, but I am sure that with the next up surge in dairy, or other ingredients they will use it as a pretext to bring their prices closer to the $5.00 price point that Dom has now established. Others places that are spending more on their ingredients will follow suit as well. The places that are already using shitty Sysco products will keep their prices the same, because cheapness is their only strength.

Moving on to whole pies... how long do you think it will be before Mangieri at Una Pizza will be raising the price of his Pizza's to the $30.00 level? He already has gone on record as stating that he feels his pizza are worth $50.00 if the market would bear it. This might be hyperbole on his part, but I do not think his ego would allow him to stay at a "paltry" $26.00 price point for very long.

From Slice

Di Fara Raising Slice Prices to $5; Will Close Tuesdays in Addition to Mondays

The problem is many of the top tier slice places in Manahattan took their cue from DiFara and raised their prices just below the old $4.00 plateau that he established. Even pizza places in NJ posted articles surrounding his last price increase almost using it as justification for any moderate increases that they had considered.

Many places are already charging $3.50 to $3.75 for Fresh Mozzarella slices. These places may not be as good as DiFara's, but they feel that they invest a substantial portion of their overhead into their ingredients and have higher rents to maintain, and will now be emboldened by the move.

When the prices were raised the last time he had some compelling circumstances that were dictating an increase:

1. Soaring cost of dairy.
2. The increasing strength of the Euro against the dollar, that impacted imported products like Mozzarella Di Bufala and imported Olive Oils etc.

At this point the price of dairy has fallen significantly and the currency situation is more stable, so the only reason for the increase is to max out the profits and subsidize the new 5 day schedule.

The unintended consequences of this move is that he is actually setting the market for other vendors and thus making decent pizza more expensive for everyone.

From Slice

Artichoke Basille's Artichoke Slice a 'New Classic'?

When they are on their game I think their Sicilian is delicious and the Margarita isn't too shabby either. I could see how some people wouldn't like the place though, especially if you are more inclined to go with a thinner slice and do not like the char that straddles (and can often cross) the line of being burnt.

From A Hamburger Today

Five Guys' Fries Make Me Weep with Happiness, Burger Is Not Bad

Robyn,

Agreed very good fries, but it may very well be the most overrated burger in the country. When I still want to fix my burger "Jones" I will head over to the Shake Shack and get a couple of Shack Burgers.

From Slice

Di Fara Attacker Gives Blogs a Bad Name

The blog's name was Gotham City Insider; not the Gothamist.

My only bone of contention with his post is that he deposits Mr Demarco into the asshole category for refusing to acknowledge his existence. His single minded focus is the quality of his product he isn't trying to be rude.

When held to every other standard other than making exceptional pizza Mr. DeMarco falls short and I do not think it is blaphemous as Cutlets words it at Grub Street to point out these facts.

If Dom wants to handle every pizza himself and and charge $20.00 a pie for the public to watch him handcraft his pizzas then good for him. Just use some of that money to hire a porter to keep the place tidy or ride his daughter and son a little bit harder so the Department of Health doesn't shut the place down again.

From Slice

How to Find the Perfect Pizza

Tony,

I was actually being facetious. I know Mr Mangieri has exacting standards when it comes to making a pizza, but if you are only open 4 days a week make enough dough Monday through Wednesday to ensure you can service the folks that make a special trip to your establishment and are willing to throw down $20.00 on a 12" pie. I know he has a religious devotion to his 36 hour rise time, but make sure you have enough in the queue to quote standard hours of operation. I would think $20.00 price points pretty much insulate his margins should he make some extra dough balls.

I think Mangieri much enjoys being a pain in the ass iconoclast as much as being a Pizzaiolo.

From Slice

How to Find the Perfect Pizza

He forgot one very important judging element....do not trust a place that does not run out of dough before it closes for the day.

From Serious Eats

Weekend Book Giveaway: 'The Elements of Cooking'

Flavor.

Depth of flavor is the end result all cooks strive for in their preparations. This requires knowledge of the ingredients before you, and the ability to use your palate to adjust seasoning.

Great technique is a means to and end, without the ability to balance sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami you simply have a well executed plate of components without any focus or cohesion.

The palate is the most important weapon in the arsenal of any cook.

From Serious Eats

'Top Chef': A Chill in the Air

Rocco is not the first chef to lend his name to promote frozen foods or ready to serve sauces from a jar. This in and of itself should not qualify chefs as sell-outs and objects of public scorn. Mario Batali has recently given his name to a Progresso Meal line and Wolfgang Puck was peddling frozen pizzas before this whole celebrity chef thing even hit it's stride. Yet very few people dispute their credentials as great chefs and cut them considerable slack in the wake of these projects.

The reason why we all castigate Rocco, is we got too see a once serious chef from the comfort of our living rooms, erect and destroy a simple Red Sauce place in less than a year, and in the process treat all people associated with the enterprise rather shabbily.

Running restaurants and being a chef is grueling work, so I can see the temptation to grab the brass ring of celebrity after paying your dues behind the stove. However, in Rocco's case he continually elects to take short term gigs for easy money rather than rebuild his reputation by using his prodigous talents as a cook once again. He should follow the example of his former mentor Gray Kunz, who has travelled a diametrically opposite path by eschewing the limelight since relinquishing his toque at Lespinasse in the late 90's. The result has been the very well the received Cafe Gray and another midtown venture to open in the fall, plus plans to open a French Laundry like shangra la of gastronomy in upstate NY in the not too distant future. This path is a bit more laborious and a lot less sexy, but it would do Rocco a world of good since Americans love nothing much more a good tale of redemption.

Personally, I feel more sadness than disdain for Rocco DiSpirito.Nothing is more depressing than a case of squandered talent. Many people, myself included, would be ecstacic to have a fraction of the ability and would love to duplicate the culinary magic that was created during his halcyon days at Union Pacific. Instead it appears that in the wake of last week's spectacle, that he is inadvertently hell bent on becoming the embodiment of the Terry Malloy character in that great movie "On the Waterfront". Despite one shameless propaganda stunt after another he elects to" take the dives the for short term money "and throw away his God given talent to cash in on "his one way ticket to Palookaville". Unfortunately, talent is not a substitute for critical self-reflection and the need to unearth in the depths of your soul an untapped reservoir of humility.


From Serious Eats

'Top Chef': A Chill in the Air

Casey, simply answered the questions that were given to her, that is all you can do. As I recall, Howie (the chief complainer in this scenario) got some real brain-busters for questions too, like identifying tomato paste and cheese slicer. Somebody, should have showed him a bandana, given his propensity for seasoning his dishes with glandular secretions. As one who has been generally been supportive of Howie throughout his bi-weekly crashes and Phoenix like ascents, I think he just needs to shut his mouth and focus on cooking for the balance of the competition. His edit on the show is going from the articulate loveable lug to surly shithead rather quickly.

From Serious Eats: New York

Daniel Boulud Settles Bias Lawsuit

Great, another public figure cowed and brow beaten by intimidation tactics and the charge of racism. The group that has initiated these charges really is in a no lose situation, because restaurant owners cannot afford the bad press or be forced to wear the Scarlett Letter of bigotry. Racism is still the one charge where there is always the implicit assumption guilt that is thrusted upon the accused. If you deign to defy the accusers and resist the tag, the mob yells the charge that much louder until all critics are rendered submissive; if you chose to refrain from comment, you must be guilty as well because of your refusal to defend yourself. What a shame!

From Serious Eats

'Top Chef': Don't Get Comfortable Just Yet

I agree that this was a dumb challenge. No sooner than when Colicchio was complaining about the fact that the contestants approaches were too literal, and unimaginative in the kitchen,he was smacking down Sara M's unconventional approach to Chicken Alla King.

If a dish doesn't taste good then by all means slam it, but he and some of these guest judges are way too hard in assessing the judgment of these competitors under the duress of a challenge. And can the people at Bravo allow these people to cook and showcase their talents?

While it is beneficial to pull these people out of their comfort zone at times, no one wants to see these people designing a nursing home menu.

From Serious Eats: New York

Which is better, a barbecued pork banh mi or a mixed Italian coldcut hero from someplace good like Faico's

The Banh Mi is lighter and a much better sandwich on a hot day, but a sandwich high of quality cured pork fat is always very hard to resist. Especially, paper thin slices of Proscuitto Di Parma fresh from the slicer.

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