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Cook the Book: 'Endangered Recipes' by Lari Robling
My fondest childhood memory is a bittersweet one; it's for a pie that I wouldn't let myself love, yet would give anything to eat now.
Growing up in London in the '70s, my palate was shaped by a thrifty mum who, despite not having a very large household budget at all, was a voracious and experimental cook. Robert Carrier, Elizabeth David, Jane Grigson and even the Galloping Gourmet were all influences and I enjoyed many a brave experiment in budget gastronomy.
It was when company came that she really pushed the boat out. Her favorite dish to make – and the real indicator that I was going to have a great night as the people coming to dinner were clearly our favorite friends who warranted this dish – was her fish pie. It probably cost more to cook than the weekly budget pushed together, but she’d go to Steve Hatt the fishmonger and get a selection of what was freshest. There would always be some smoked haddock in there.
A rich, tomatoey sauce, plus the unctuousness of a cheesy béchamel combined under the perfect mashed-potato crust; yet therein lay the problem. The inevitable result of tomato and cheese sauce combined was an undeniably curdled appearance. The taste was, to everyone’s declaration, sublime. I just couldn’t get over the fact that it looked like sick.
I would give anything to try that again; sadly, I live 3,500 miles away now, and my mother has moved on to farther-away culinary lands and so it will likely never be made by her hands again. Mummy, I’m sorry I wouldn’t eat it. I’m sure it was delicious.
What do you miss? (to: expats and others!)
Another Brit living here. The things I miss have changed a little over the 9 years I've been here, partly because I'm finding more and more products available here. So I don't have to miss Marmite, Branston pickle, Heinz baked beans & cream of tomato soup, or PG Tips tea. What I do still miss:
*Going into Marks & Spencers and picking out a ready meal for dinner - followed by the Count On Us chocolate mousse
*The selection of candy - I rarely eat candy, but when I do get the urge, I don't want to have to hunt down Crunchies, Maltesers or Bounty bars from a specialist store. I just can't quite enjoy the chocolate here.
*An abundance of convenient, ready-prepared, unusual veggies at a wide range of mainstream supermarkets.
*Taramasalata - available anywhere (again, mainstream supermarkets), not just by hunting down a good Greek place
*Properly spiced Indian food
*The ice-cream fridges in every newsagent (and, for that matter, newsagents) with huge varieties of ice lollies, not to mention the Bounty ice-cream bar
*Being able to buy wine in the grocery store (yes, I know you can do that in many states here, but not in NY/CT and that just bothers me no end)
*And yes, Muller yogurt, but ESPECIALLY Muller Rice.
That said, there are many things this side of the pond for which I'm very grateful, not least the iced water when you sit down at a restaurant table, and getting straws and a napkin when you buy soda.
Did Ina mispronounce something.....
Maybe Martha is an Anglophile? We Brits pronounce the H in herbs. I can't bring myself to do otherwise, and my husband thinks it's awfully cute. I've mostly gone the way of tomAYtoe, though not when I'm on the phone with my mother, heaven forbid.
As for "ahn-deeve," it was someone on Chopped, that was one of the ingredients the other night.
I think someone on the boards railed against "bleu" cheese the other week. I just find it difficult talking about food (and I kind of have to, it's my job!) when I'm not sure, even after nine years of living in the US, how to pronounce stuff. No consistency between Americanizing things and pronouncing them in their natural languages!
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Had a fantastic lunch at Pier 77, it's a beautiful room with a staggering view. Fresh, tasty food, and welcoming but not overly intrusive service. Not sure what it's like for dinner, but we can't wait to go back for lunch.
A little bit outside town, Joshua's is definitely a different scene. It's in an old house, with lots of smallish rooms, and a real focus on "haute barnyard" - local, farmer's market ingredients, and not a lobster roll in sight.
Have to confess a huge weakness for Hurricane's - sure, the food isn't the absolute best in the area, but in terms of conviviality, we just love returning year after year and sitting up at the bar.
Haven't been to Bandaloop in a couple of years since they changed the menu - it's clearly been a successful change, though, as the reason we haven't been for a while is that we were completely unable to secure a table when we went. Serves us right for not making resys...