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From Recipes

Gluten-Free Tuesday: Juniper Berries

As a game cook, I use several pounds of juniper berries every year. Venison and duck are classics, but they go well with moose, antelope, goose, chupacabra, wild boar, wombat, pigeon, dove and especially hummingbird...

Seriously, the berries are soft and resinous, making them very tough to grind to a powder. You need to toast them first if you want this. I typically just coarse grind them. More rustic that way...

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: The Tale of Veal

I'm still bitter that my once-secret trick -- oxtail stew, with oxtails bought for 79 cents a pound back in the early 1990s -- is now in the open, and the friggin' oxtails are pushing $6 a pound now. I blame you, celebrity chefs!!!

From Talk

The 'Science' of food going bad?

One interesting note I have found over the years is that white mold is rarely worrisome. In many cases it is actually penicillin, and whatever it is, I not only encourage it on my salami when I am curing them, but will happily scoop off little spots o'mold where I see them and eat the rest of the item; tomato paste springs to mind.

Black mold, on the other hand, is no bueno.

As for aging of meat, one man's rotten is another's delicacy. I like to hang my pheasants for several days before gutting them, but I know a few people who will hang for more than a week. The meat stinks by then and will drive everyone out of the kitchen when cooking the bird...but by all accounts, is the finest flavored and tenderest poultry ever eaten. I've not been brave enough to go beyond 5 days.

From Serious Eats

Dan Barber Says We Need to Like Organ Meat

Hear! Hear! I am trying to do the same thing with my fellow hunters -- getting them to eat more than just backstraps and endless meals of random ground venison, etc. I do find that hunters are far more likely than "regular people" to like heart and liver, however, which I think is a good sign.

Just one thing about the image, though: Since when were chicken wings considered "nasty bits?"

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From Recipes

Gluten-Free Tuesday: Juniper Berries

As a game cook, I use several pounds of juniper berries every year. Venison and duck are classics, but they go well with moose, antelope, goose, chupacabra, wild boar, wombat, pigeon, dove and especially hummingbird...

Seriously, the berries are soft and resinous, making them very tough to grind to a powder. You need to toast them first if you want this. I typically just coarse grind them. More rustic that way...

From Recipes

The Nasty Bits: The Tale of Veal

I'm still bitter that my once-secret trick -- oxtail stew, with oxtails bought for 79 cents a pound back in the early 1990s -- is now in the open, and the friggin' oxtails are pushing $6 a pound now. I blame you, celebrity chefs!!!

From Talk

The 'Science' of food going bad?

One interesting note I have found over the years is that white mold is rarely worrisome. In many cases it is actually penicillin, and whatever it is, I not only encourage it on my salami when I am curing them, but will happily scoop off little spots o'mold where I see them and eat the rest of the item; tomato paste springs to mind.

Black mold, on the other hand, is no bueno.

As for aging of meat, one man's rotten is another's delicacy. I like to hang my pheasants for several days before gutting them, but I know a few people who will hang for more than a week. The meat stinks by then and will drive everyone out of the kitchen when cooking the bird...but by all accounts, is the finest flavored and tenderest poultry ever eaten. I've not been brave enough to go beyond 5 days.

From Serious Eats

Dan Barber Says We Need to Like Organ Meat

Hear! Hear! I am trying to do the same thing with my fellow hunters -- getting them to eat more than just backstraps and endless meals of random ground venison, etc. I do find that hunters are far more likely than "regular people" to like heart and liver, however, which I think is a good sign.

Just one thing about the image, though: Since when were chicken wings considered "nasty bits?"

From Talk

Do You Eat Radish Leaves?

I make a salad with them dressed with warm duck fat, salt and Meyer lemon juice.

From Serious Eats

Serious Cocktails: Getting a Grip on Grappa

A local winery in Amador County called Vino Noceto makes excellent grappas from Sangiovese and Moscato grapes. I actually prefer it to all but the best Italian grappas.

From Serious Eats

Serious Green: A Preview of 'Food, Inc.' in Theaters June 12

Not a lot of new ground plowed here if you have read or watched many of the recent food politics films or read the books (Omnivore's Dilemme, Fast Food Nation, Corn, etc) but the movie is a good primer for someone who doesn't live this stuff, as I am sure many of my fellow Serious Eaters do. What was especially interesting was the Monsanto bit -- pretty chilling...

From Talk

What to do with Barley

I just did a barley risotto with duck stock, duck fat, onions and Greek mizithra cheese that you might like. Contrary to earlier suggestions, I would say don't rinse it -- you want that starchy coating to make the "creamy" sauce that marks a good risotto. Barley needs more water and more stirring to get this effect than does rice, so watch over it the first few times you make it.

From Talk

Serious Efforts: vacuum sealing liquids in a Foodsaver for SV

I have a standard vacuum sealer with a "pulse" function that lets me stop the seal where I want it. I have used it for poached salmon as well as antelope with good results.

I also use the vac sealer method for confit of wild duck and goose and I LOVE it -- doing it this way uses less fat and because the fat sets up firm in the fridge, keeps the confited meat coated and sealed. I have set confited goose legs in the fridge this way a month and they were still delicious.

I have not been able to get that compression effect Thomas Keller talks about with fruit, however. I think that needs the high-pressure model.

From Serious Eats

'SF Chronicle' Columnist Defends Foie Gras

What's with the Canada goose icon? No one makes foie with wild geese (although I've eaten a few wild goose livers almost that fatty), and domestics don't look like that. No biggie, but I'm just sayin'...

From Serious Eats

Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?

I'm with Meat guy -- I shoot for 145 degrees as well. It is still "blush of pink" that way, and still plenty juicy.

From Serious Eats

Trichinosis in Free-Range Pigs: Cause for Concern, or Sloppy Editing and Writing?

OK, so I read the study in question, because a few people asked me about it. I will say at the start that the op-ed was not my favorite, and as a former writer of pieces like this I detected all sorts of tricks clever opinion writers use to bend reality to their point of view; it is part of the craft.

But let's just take the writer at face value: The study he refers to looked at 329 "free range" hogs and tested them, and then found 2 -- yes, only 2 -- that had even the presence of antibodies for the trichinae parasite.

Now the presence of antibodies is not a 100 percent guarantor that the hog is infected. They probably do have trichinae worms, but the presence of antibodies also can mean that the hog has defeated the parasite at some point in its past and has a strengthened immune system because of it. (think Nietzsche)

But for the sake of argument, let's just say both of those hogs actually had trichinae: 2 pigs out of 329 is a REALLY good set of odds. Why? It's all about perception. Most consumers are still convinced ALL hogs carry trichinae worms, so given this, even the Gucci hogs are beating the odds.

So the bottom line for me is that I'd still rather buy pork from a "walkin' around pig" that had an honest immune system -- and yes, a less than 1 percent chance of carrying trichinae parasites -- than a factory hog. And I'll cook that walkin' around pig the way I like it: with a nice blush of pink at its center.

From Talk

Good BBQ in Virginia?

Allman's in Fredericksburg. Awesome. I little farther than what you are looking for, but true VA BBQ starts at Stafford Courthouse...

From Talk

Duck

This is a tough one to comment on as there are so many ways to go with it, but the iron-clad advice I would give is to serve the breasts in one meal done hot, fast and medium-rare, the legs/thighs/wings in another done slow, low and falling off the bone -- and make a quart of duck stock with the carcass.

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Caldo Verde

Just made caldo verde the other night -- trick is to get black cabbage (which I grow), or black kale or at least a savoy, roll the leaves in a cigar and slice them AS THIN AS HUMANLY POSSIBLE. Cook your soup as long as it needs to (I use ham hocks, blood sausage, pork shoulder, etc), then add the cabbage in right at the end. Let it cook for only 5 minutes or so, so it is still vibrant green. Oh, and the version of caldo verde I make uses potatoes cooked to the point where they dissolve and add body to the soup. I puree the potatoes with a boat motor...

From Talk

Serious Efforts: Whole Deer Neck

Ok, since someone called out "Beetlejuice! Beetlejuice! Beetlejuice!" I have been drawn to this site...Deer neck, eh? Odd one, this. If you are a good boner (couldn't resist), you could remove the vertebrae the way you debone a lamb's leg. Save the bones for stock with lots of aromatics (rosemary and juniper are a must).

As for the neck, make a stuffing. I'd suggest lots and lots of mushrooms, herbs, and various onion-y things (garlic, leeks, onions, etc), and maybe some pine nuts or chestnuts tossed in. Smear onto one side of neck meat and then tie and roll like a roulade. Smear outside with bacon fat (OK, you can use salt and olive oil) and roast at 250 degrees for about 4-5 hours, then put a hate on the thing at 450 degrees for a final 15 minutes or so to get a nice crust.

If you are not such a good boner (again, couldn't resist), make stew meat out of it or use it for sausage or a venison sugo. If you are feeling especially unadventurous, use it for chili.

At any rate, that's my $0.02.

~ Hank

From Talk

Wild Duck

Ciaobella: Do you live in Sacramento? I know Simon's and Frank Fat's will do this for hunters here. I would love to know which restaurant your uncle brings them to!

As for the original question, I cook wild ducks and geese probably 50 days a year (yes, I am something of a marsh rat), and have tons of recipes here.

What you do with ducks depends on their condition: Fat ducks that aren't shot up get roasted, skinny ducks get braised, shot-up ducks are for rillettes, carnitas, sausage, etc. Unless you have a beautiful, fat duck (which you'll want to roast), break down the birds so you can cook the breasts medium rare (with a few exceptions, you want ducks to be pink, not gray or brown.) and braise the legs and wings.

And don't forget the livers make excellent ravioli filling and the hearts a tasty, if unusal, stir-fry. And the carcasses make fantastic duck stock or broth.

From Talk

'Exotic' Meats: What's Your Pleasure?

I just barbecued a jackrabbit in a mustard sauce. It was fantabulous!

Basically everything I eat is "exotic" because I hunt or fish for pretty much all my meat. Weirdest? Sea cucumber was pretty nasty, although I kinda like jellyfish. No North American game meat is too terribly "weird" tasting, if it is cooked properly. Maybe turtle.

I bet whale or seal would be pretty odd, although I have eaten neither. Fishy beef is how I hear it described. Mountain lion is said to taste like pork, as is coyote.

From Talk

Spike's Scallops from Top Chef

There is nothing wrong with frozen scallops -- you just can't then sear them the way Spike wanted to. He should have seen the product, known the issue and made ceviche out of them, or quenelles, or a tartare, a souffle -- anything the added water won't really affect that horribly. His judgment failed him not only on choosing a limiting ingredient, but on what he chose to do with that ingredient once the choice was made...

From Talk

Eating and hanging out in Sacramento

Hey Kathy,

I live in Sacramento, and I can tell you your choices are myriad. It would help to know what you are looking for? Upscale? Dive? Taco truck? World-class haute cusine? Believe it or not, Sacto has it all -- you just need to know where to look.

From Talk

White wine recipes?

Any recipe that calls for red wine can use white wine -- it is a common way to "lighten" winter dishes for springtime. The difference between a red wine-simmered stewing hen and a white wine-simmered bird (or lamb, or even beef!) is noticeable and very appropriate for this time of year. So have at it!

From Talk

Is Copper River Salmon worth its weight in gold?

Copper River salmon is sockeye, which is a smaller and redder salmon than chinook. Fiddleheadfern is correct: Buy *any* Alaskan sockeye and you will be a happy person.

Sadly, I live in California and am experiencing the Year Without A Salmon. I was in shock for a while, but I have just made the acquaintance of the Pacific white seabass, which is so freakin' awesome I am wondering where it's been all my life!

Get ready for $40 a pound king salmon later this year...or switch to another fish.

From Talk

Thresher shark

It's basically swordfish -- and along with mako shark sold as such by disreputable fishmongers -- so use any sword recipe. Turkish walnut sauce over grilled kebabs is nice. Poached in olive oil is also good.

Keep in mind that mercury levels in thresher are pretty high. Don't feed it to young kids, and don't eat more than 2-3 meals of it per month.

From Talk

Shad Season

You should come to California or Oregon, where the two largest American shad runs in the world are. There are so many in the Sacramento you can keep 25 a day...

...and it should be said that while certain species of shad do occur worldwide, the American shad is only native to the East Coast from Florida to Labrador. It was planted in California in 1871 and spread to the West Coast after that.

Our season has just started now, and will run into July. I will be sharpening my knives to fillet the fish, which takes some doing. Once filleted, you can do all kinds of things with shad, which earns its Latin name sapidissima.

As for the roe, I flour it, cook it in bacon fat, and serve with chervil and a wedge of lemon.

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About HunterAnglerGardenerCook

Website: http://www.honest-food.net

Location: Sacramento, CA

About: I write. I fish. I dig earth, raise plants, live for food and kill wild animals. I drink bourbon, Barolo or Budweiser with equal aplomb and wish I owned a farm. I am the omnivore who has solved his dilemma.

Favorite foods: Wild game, mushrooms, pork, salami, odd salad greens, tomatoes, mandarins, salmon belly, garlic...I could go on...

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