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From Serious Eats

How Well Will the Obama Administration Handle Food Issues?

I have to disagree with this statement from the post above: "Obama didn't show any inclination to champion family-farm-friendly, sustainably raised and grown food as a senator or as a candidate." In fact, candidate Obama's position paper on the Environment (PDF) contained some very good things about food and agriculture:


Regulate CAFOs: Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs), which raise more than 40 percent of U.S. livestock, comprise a larger share of the livestock industry every year. Barack Obama has worked for tougher environmental regulations on CAFOs. He has supported legislation to set tough air and water pollution limits for livestock operations, including limits on nitrogen, phosphorus, hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, and other pollutants. In the Obama Administration, the Environmental Protection Agency will strictly monitor and regulate pollution from large CAFOs, with fines for those who violate tough air and water quality standards. Obama also strongly supports efforts to ensure meaningful local control.


Encourage Organic and Sustainable Agriculture: Organic food is the fastest growing sector of the American food marketplace. Demand for sustainable, locally-grown, grass-finished and heritage foods is also growing quickly. These niche markets present new opportunities for beginning farmers because specialty operations often require more management and labor than capital. To support the continued growth of sustainable alternative agriculture, Barack Obama will increase funding for the National Organic Certification Cost-Share Program to help farmers afford the costs of compliance with national organic certification standards. He will also reform the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Risk Management Agency’s crop insurance rates so that they do not penalize organic farmers.


Support Local Family Farmers with Local Foods and Promote Regional Food System Policies: Farming is a vanishing lifestyle. Less than one million Americans claim farming as their primary occupation. Those farmers who sell directly to their customers cut out all of the middlemen and get full retail price for their food -which means farm families can afford to stay on the farm, doing the important work they love. Barack Obama recognizes that local and regional food systems are better for our environment and support family-scale producers. As president, he will emphasize the need for Americans to Buy Fresh and Buy Local, and he will implement USDA policies that promote local and regional food systems.

Whether he will remember these positions is partially up to all of us -- we need to regularly remind him, members of Congress and the media about the position paper released during the campaign.

From Talk

Do you have a REALLY good lasagna recipe?

One of my favorites is the mushroom lasagne in "The Greens Cookbook" by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. The fillings are herb-laced, sauteed mushrooms, ricotta, and more cheese. The sauces is a white bechamel. The noodles specified in the recipe are large sheets of fresh pasta. The bottom one is bigger than the pan so that it can be folded over the top to make a sealed packet during baking. If you can buy sheets of fresh pasta it's not too hard. If you make your own it can be quite an endeavor.

From Talk

dosai/pierogie filling?

The Indian (South Indian, to be more precise) potato filling that was in the dosa can be found in many Indian cookbooks. "Dakshin", by Chandra Padmanabhan has a recipe for "Potato Masala" that has worked well for me (if you're looking to learn South Indian cooking, Dakshin is a great resource). It also has recipes for the dosa, but those are far harder to make.

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From Serious Eats

How Well Will the Obama Administration Handle Food Issues?

I have to disagree with this statement from the post above: "Obama didn't show any inclination to champion family-farm-friendly, sustainably raised and grown food as a senator or as a candidate." In fact, candidate Obama's position paper on the Environment (PDF) contained some very good things about food and agriculture:


Regulate CAFOs: Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs), which raise more than 40 percent of U.S. livestock, comprise a larger share of the livestock industry every year. Barack Obama has worked for tougher environmental regulations on CAFOs. He has supported legislation to set tough air and water pollution limits for livestock operations, including limits on nitrogen, phosphorus, hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, and other pollutants. In the Obama Administration, the Environmental Protection Agency will strictly monitor and regulate pollution from large CAFOs, with fines for those who violate tough air and water quality standards. Obama also strongly supports efforts to ensure meaningful local control.


Encourage Organic and Sustainable Agriculture: Organic food is the fastest growing sector of the American food marketplace. Demand for sustainable, locally-grown, grass-finished and heritage foods is also growing quickly. These niche markets present new opportunities for beginning farmers because specialty operations often require more management and labor than capital. To support the continued growth of sustainable alternative agriculture, Barack Obama will increase funding for the National Organic Certification Cost-Share Program to help farmers afford the costs of compliance with national organic certification standards. He will also reform the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Risk Management Agency’s crop insurance rates so that they do not penalize organic farmers.


Support Local Family Farmers with Local Foods and Promote Regional Food System Policies: Farming is a vanishing lifestyle. Less than one million Americans claim farming as their primary occupation. Those farmers who sell directly to their customers cut out all of the middlemen and get full retail price for their food -which means farm families can afford to stay on the farm, doing the important work they love. Barack Obama recognizes that local and regional food systems are better for our environment and support family-scale producers. As president, he will emphasize the need for Americans to Buy Fresh and Buy Local, and he will implement USDA policies that promote local and regional food systems.

Whether he will remember these positions is partially up to all of us -- we need to regularly remind him, members of Congress and the media about the position paper released during the campaign.

From Talk

Do you have a REALLY good lasagna recipe?

One of my favorites is the mushroom lasagne in "The Greens Cookbook" by Deborah Madison and Edward Espe Brown. The fillings are herb-laced, sauteed mushrooms, ricotta, and more cheese. The sauces is a white bechamel. The noodles specified in the recipe are large sheets of fresh pasta. The bottom one is bigger than the pan so that it can be folded over the top to make a sealed packet during baking. If you can buy sheets of fresh pasta it's not too hard. If you make your own it can be quite an endeavor.

From Talk

dosai/pierogie filling?

The Indian (South Indian, to be more precise) potato filling that was in the dosa can be found in many Indian cookbooks. "Dakshin", by Chandra Padmanabhan has a recipe for "Potato Masala" that has worked well for me (if you're looking to learn South Indian cooking, Dakshin is a great resource). It also has recipes for the dosa, but those are far harder to make.

From Talk

Suggestions for a reliable kitchen scale

I'm very happy with the Escali P115 scale. Small and simple, only two buttons (unit change and on/tare), and has auto shutoff. It goes up to 5 kg (11 lb), with 1 gram resolution. I think it was about $20.

From Serious Eats

Dispatch from Slow Food Nation: The Marketplace

You wrote that Christine Adams from the Heart of the City Farmers Market "... would have liked to see work setting up urban gardens in the area." That's already part of the plan for the future. Some of Slow Food Nation's partners are very active in urban gardens -- both public and private -- and will be working to help create backyard vegetable gardens and community gardens. These partners include City Slicker Farms in Oakland, the Victory Gardens 2008+ organization, and someone from the San Francisco backyard gardens project (I think it's housed in the Department of the Environment).

When the garden is removed from its current location, the garden equipment (soil, burlap borders, drip irrigation equipment, etc.) will be donated to people who want to grow food in their backyard.

But as you suggest in your final post on SFN, it would have been great to harness the energy of the attendees to build gardens all around the city.

From Serious Eats

In Season: Sugar Snap Peas

My standard recipe for sugar snap peas is quick and easy. It's based on one in "Chez Panisse Vegetables." Here it is:

Wash and destring the snap peas, then put them in a skillet (optionally, cut each one into a few pieces on the diagonal). Add a dollop or two of butter, a few teaspoons of water, salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently until done, a few minutes. Ideally, the butter and water will form an emulsion that coats the peas with wonderful flavor. You could toss in some mint or lemon zest for additional flavor.

From Talk

Unidentified Lettuce?

I like to cook savoy cabbage very simply: melt some butter in a pot, add chopped cabbage, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally until done. Add salt and pepper to taste.

A far more complicated treatment of savoy cabbage can be found in The Greens Cookbook. It's a combination of buckwheat noodles, brown butter, the cabbage, and soft cheese.

From Serious Eats

Two Makes It a Trend: Guerrilla Gardening

The San Francisco Chronicle had a story about Guerrilla Gardening months ago, as well as some follow up articles and reader feedback.

From Talk

Making chocolate?

I concur with kjgibson's comment about the equipment required to process the beans. Another challenge is tempering the chocolate so that your bars have that 'snap' that you find in good bars. It's not impossible to temper at home (I've done it well in about 25% of my attempts), but changing weather and other uncontrollable factors at home cause problems.

There are other things you can do with whole cacao beans after roasting and winnowing. The resulting nibs can be used to flavor all sorts of desserts and chocolates.

From Talk

Went to Surfas in LA - what should I do with these?

I'd put the dried epazote into a pot of beans that are being cooked to accompany Mexican food. Epazote has an interesting (some say metallic) flavor that goes well with beans (and supposedly reduces the gas-inducing properties of the beans). You could also sprinkle some on the filling of a cheese quesadilla before you cook it. (epazote is pretty easy to grow in a container. Try as I might, I can't seem to kill mine.)

The palm sugar is best used in a place where you can really taste it, like the palm sugar coconut sauce at tutti foodie. You might find some other uses in the desserts section of a Malaysian, Thai or Indonesian cookbook. Alice Medrich's amazing "Pure Desserts" cookbook probably also has some recipes that highlight the flavor of the palm sugar.

From Talk

'american' cheese

San Joaquin Gold by Fiscalini Farms (Modesto, California). The Gold is straw colored, mildly crumbly, reminds me of Parmesan Reggiano, but a bit smoother and less salty.

Bandage Wrapped Cheddar by Fiscalini Farms (Modesto, California). It has a nice tang and crumbly-ness, is perhaps on par with some English cheddars.

Pleasant Ridge Reserve (Wisconsin). Somewhat like Gruyere..

St. George (Santa Rosa, California). A Portuguese-style cheese, somewhat soft, airy, mild in flavor.

From Serious Eats

In Gear: Hacking Mason Jars

I recently became a Mason jar convert and now use them for the bulk of my dry goods storage (and I have a lot of them -- 6 kinds of rice, 7 kinds of grains, 5 nuts, and so on) . Some other advantages that I see are

* The same lid will fit multiple jar sizes (8 oz., 16 oz., 32 oz., 64 oz.) so no need to hunt around for the right lid, just grab a narrow mouth or wide mouth.
* Can handle hot liquids. I often strain hot soup stocks directly into a jar without worry of melting or leaching.
* Many brands are made in the U.S.A., thus subject to stricter environmental regulations and better labor laws than plastics made in Asia.
* Fully recyclable (plastic is recyclable, but harder to deal with because of problems from mixed streams).
* Convenient to run through the dishwasher.

Another 'hack' is to use a Mason jar to make sprouts: cut a piece of screen into the shape of the lid and use it instead of the lid. Follow sprouting guidelines for preparing and maintaining the mixture (like these).

From Serious Eats

In Videos: Josh Ozersky on ABC's 'Nightline' on Restaurant Calorie Labeling

There are plenty of "sucker salads" out there, and the public isn't very good at identifying them. Back in April 2007, the San Francisco Chronicle reported on a field poll about fat and calories in restaurant food:

The poll asked 523 registered voters to answer four seemingly simple questions: Pick out the dishes with the most calories, the fewest calories, the least salt and the most fat from among menu items from Denny's, Chili's, Romano's Macaroni Grill and McDonald's. (To take the quiz, and find out about that Caesar salad, see graphic.) Just as on the menus, the only information given was the name of the dish.

By any measure, the respondents flunked. Two-thirds answered all four questions wrong. And no one -- not one single person -- got all four right. The results were the same regardless of age, income, education or political party, according to the poll.

...

For the record, only three of 13 Chronicle Food section staffers who took the quiz answered two questions right; seven got one correct answer; and three earned zeroes. No one answered even three of the four questions correctly.


From Slice

Happy Birthday, Bob Dylan

A couple weeks ago NPR's Fresh Air had an interview with the woman on the Freewheelin' album cover. Her name is Suze Rotolo and has an interesting story to tell. The show can be streamed at Fresh Air or downloaded via a podcasting program. Strangely enough, there was no mention of pizza in the interview -- that must have been edited out because of time constraints....

From Serious Eats

Weekend Book Giveaway: 'Secret Ingredients, the New Yorker Book of Food and Drink'

Calvin Trillin. His bone dry sense of humor, eye for the absurd, and passion about his subjects always entertains me.

From Serious Eats

Sunday Reading

It's good to see the subject of insect eating getting some attention. A little while ago I wrote a somewhat longish blog post exploring why most Americans have such an aversion to eating insects. It's quite a complicated situation, involving many deep psychological attitudes and historical biases. In the post I also link to additional resources on insect eating (like Marvin Harris's book on food taboos) for those who want to find out more.

From Talk

Any thoughts: Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone?

I bought the book soon after publication and use it now and then, often for inspiration when I have some vegetables to use up. There are quite a few personal favorites in the book. Off the top of my head: the carrots and hijiki seaweed, the sunflower-seed bread, the chickpeas with ginger, and the oat bread.

From Talk

Prunes are no laughing matter...

David Lebovitz also had Prune Blogging Thursday back in 2005 with plenty of great entries from around the world, including my use of prunes in Nick Maglieri's X-cookie (a Sicilian cookie that is a rich, eggy dough filled with a mixture of dried fruit, almonds, chocolate, rum and other goodies).

From Talk

What's the best lentil recipe in the world?

Yeah, lentils aren't an ingredient that inspires poems and folk songs. But they can be tasty and quick to prepare.

The lentil recipe in Deborah Madison's "Local Flavors" is my favorite. It starts with a vegetable stock (one that includes dried porcini mushrooms) that is fortified by red wine. It is then reduced slightly to thicken and concentrate the flavors. The sauce is poured on top of braised vegetables (parsnips, carrots, mushrooms) and cooked French lentils (a.k.a. green lentils). Mashed potatoes are a side dish to collect any excess sauce. A lot of effort, but well worth it.

From Talk

Cookware Advice

Look closely at cast iron. It is relatively inexpensive, lasts forever, and can be as non-stick as the most expensive brand name Teflon-like pan (and some is even made in the U.S.A.). It also doesn't give off toxic fumes if you overheat it, and if you screw up a cast iron pan, you only need to reseason it, not toss it in the trash.

My collection is insanely eclectic. At least half of it is from thrift stores and garage sales (slightly dinged Le Creuset, original Calphalon), the rest are stainless steel saucepans from All Clad and some lower-level brands. The All Clad saucepans are excellent, with one flaw: they are hard to pour from without making a mess.

From Talk

Shrinking pie crust -- what gives?

Apparently vinegar (or another acid) will inhibit gluten formation and reduce shrinkage. Rose Levy Beranbaum's ''The Pie and Pastry Bible'' has a great crust recipe that includes vinegar for that purpose. It also has cream cheese, which gives it a nice tang. The NYT archive has the recipe.

From Talk

Help!: Standard Time's Ruining my Food Photos

You could also build a light box. Mine gives pretty good results -- certainly much better than a flash or the lights in my kitchen.

Here is a set of instructions for the foam-core lightbox. And here's one of a different design.

From Talk

Do you blog? What's your URL?

Blog name: Mental Masala
My URL: http://marcsala.blogspot.com/
What it's about/tagline: "An enticing blend: a few parts food, a few parts travel, one part history, a part or two of art, and a dash of nature."

I've been writing Mental Masala for two years and recently passed the 100 post mark.

I also contribute to The Ethicurean, usually in the areas of food politics and similar "hard" topics.

From Talk

Pot Luck Help, please!

It's good to have some cheese, dips, bread and crackers available when people start arriving to allow people to snack a bit before the table is opened for pot lucking. Especially if you have wine and alcohol available, as it will help avoid drinking on an empty stomach.

Also, you might recommend that people bring a few containers in which to carry home unwanted leftovers from the potluck. For example, someone might have made a huge casserole that was only 1/4 eaten, and the person who brought it doesn't want all of it. But many of the guests might want to take it for lunch the next day or whatever.

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Website: http://marcsala.blogspot.com/

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Favorite foods: red chile enchiladas, Thai curry, pizza, oranges, masala dosai

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