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Ed -- I agree completely with your assessment of Babbo. It's really one of the best restaurants in the city, never mind just among the Italian spots. Further, each of Batali's other Italian restaurants in the city (haven't yet been to Del Posto though) is excellent in its own way, whether for the packed wine list and cheap eats at Otto or the simple fish treatment at Esca. And each of them is efficiently run with smart service, which also contributes to his success.
My wife and I recently tried to go to Babbo without a reservation, hoping to get a spot at the bar. When we discovered a long wait, we went to Lupa instead and had a great time.