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From Talk

Suggestions for cooking for many at the beach

Millede, can you provide some more information? How long are you going to be there? How many meals per day do you intend to prepare? Will your guests expect to eat their evening meal at a certain time, or are they flexible? How well is the kitchen equipped? How skilled are you as a cook? How skilled is your assistant? Do you and your assistant like to cook, or do you regard it as a chore? How much time are you and the assistant prepared to devote each day to acquiring and preparing food? If you do the cooking, will some other people agree to take care of all the post-meal clean-up (I hope so!)? Do you and your companions regard your meals at the beach house as mere fuel for other activities, or do you see them as an enjoyable part of the vacation in themselves?

I ask because I have about 25 years of experience cooking for 2 weeks each summer -- with a competent assistant -- for a similarly diverse crowd ranging from 12 to 24 or so people. We have two goals: to spend every afternoon at the beach, weather permitting; and to eat as well as possible when we aren't at the beach.

From Talk

What's the stupidest thing you ever ordered at a restaurant?

A long time ago (circa 1976), I once ordered something very stupidly. That is, my language was stupid. My in-laws had taken my wife and me out to dinner, and we were ordering drinks before dinner. I told the waitress I wanted a daiquiri -- except I pronounced it da-QUEER-ee. This was the way my father-in-law always pronounced it at home, to be funny (he wasn't making a slur on gays, by the way). As soon as the word left my mouth, I knew it was wrong, but I just couldn't think of the correct pronunciation. So as the waitress stared at me, trying to comprehend my request, I said da-QUEER-ee again. She corrected my pronunciation and I confirmed that a DACK-er-ee was what I wanted. What a bunch of rubes I have at this table, she must have thought.

From Serious Eats

Poll: What's Your Favorite Kind of Pie?

Choosing a favorite pie is like choosing your favorite child. When I was in junior high school decades ago, I'd horrify the cafeteria ladies by asking for an empty soup bowl, 3 cartons of milk -- and 3 pieces of fruit pie, each a different one. If my luncheon choice didn't make the workers happy, it certainly made me happy!

From Recipes

Serious Chocolate: Easy Chocolate Pie Crust

Lemons, I have a close friend who's just like you. She's a good cook -- adventurous and inventive -- but she's deathly afraid of pie crust and bread dough. But you do not need a food processor to make a good pie crust (or bread, for that matter). I use a simple pastry blender these days, but for decades I got by with just a dinner fork, which is what my mother used. You and thousands of others have convinced yourself that pie crust is hard and intimidating, but it isn't. Now, if you add too much water you'll end up with goo, and if you work the dough too much you'll end up with cardboard. Two things to consider: substitute a little vinegar for some of the ice water (I usually use 2 Tbsp white vinegar to about 4 Tbsp ice water for a 2-crust pie), which makes the dough easier to handle; and roll out the crust between sheets of wax paper, flipping it now and then. "Serious" bakers scorn that practice, but you don't get flour all over the place and it makes it easy to put the second crust in place. If I'm making a dessert pie, I add a couple of tablespoons of sugar to the dough to counter the vinegar, which I can't taste but which friends can detect; if I'm making a savory dish (quiche, pot pie) I omit the sugar.

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From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

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Recent Comments

From Talk

Suggestions for cooking for many at the beach

Millede, can you provide some more information? How long are you going to be there? How many meals per day do you intend to prepare? Will your guests expect to eat their evening meal at a certain time, or are they flexible? How well is the kitchen equipped? How skilled are you as a cook? How skilled is your assistant? Do you and your assistant like to cook, or do you regard it as a chore? How much time are you and the assistant prepared to devote each day to acquiring and preparing food? If you do the cooking, will some other people agree to take care of all the post-meal clean-up (I hope so!)? Do you and your companions regard your meals at the beach house as mere fuel for other activities, or do you see them as an enjoyable part of the vacation in themselves?

I ask because I have about 25 years of experience cooking for 2 weeks each summer -- with a competent assistant -- for a similarly diverse crowd ranging from 12 to 24 or so people. We have two goals: to spend every afternoon at the beach, weather permitting; and to eat as well as possible when we aren't at the beach.

From Talk

What's the stupidest thing you ever ordered at a restaurant?

A long time ago (circa 1976), I once ordered something very stupidly. That is, my language was stupid. My in-laws had taken my wife and me out to dinner, and we were ordering drinks before dinner. I told the waitress I wanted a daiquiri -- except I pronounced it da-QUEER-ee. This was the way my father-in-law always pronounced it at home, to be funny (he wasn't making a slur on gays, by the way). As soon as the word left my mouth, I knew it was wrong, but I just couldn't think of the correct pronunciation. So as the waitress stared at me, trying to comprehend my request, I said da-QUEER-ee again. She corrected my pronunciation and I confirmed that a DACK-er-ee was what I wanted. What a bunch of rubes I have at this table, she must have thought.

From Serious Eats

Poll: What's Your Favorite Kind of Pie?

Choosing a favorite pie is like choosing your favorite child. When I was in junior high school decades ago, I'd horrify the cafeteria ladies by asking for an empty soup bowl, 3 cartons of milk -- and 3 pieces of fruit pie, each a different one. If my luncheon choice didn't make the workers happy, it certainly made me happy!

From Recipes

Serious Chocolate: Easy Chocolate Pie Crust

Lemons, I have a close friend who's just like you. She's a good cook -- adventurous and inventive -- but she's deathly afraid of pie crust and bread dough. But you do not need a food processor to make a good pie crust (or bread, for that matter). I use a simple pastry blender these days, but for decades I got by with just a dinner fork, which is what my mother used. You and thousands of others have convinced yourself that pie crust is hard and intimidating, but it isn't. Now, if you add too much water you'll end up with goo, and if you work the dough too much you'll end up with cardboard. Two things to consider: substitute a little vinegar for some of the ice water (I usually use 2 Tbsp white vinegar to about 4 Tbsp ice water for a 2-crust pie), which makes the dough easier to handle; and roll out the crust between sheets of wax paper, flipping it now and then. "Serious" bakers scorn that practice, but you don't get flour all over the place and it makes it easy to put the second crust in place. If I'm making a dessert pie, I add a couple of tablespoons of sugar to the dough to counter the vinegar, which I can't taste but which friends can detect; if I'm making a savory dish (quiche, pot pie) I omit the sugar.

From Recipes

Serious Chocolate: Easy Chocolate Pie Crust

Gosh, it really isn't that hard to make a decent pie crust -- and it certainly shouldn't take very long. In fact, one reason many crusts fail is that the baker spends too much time working the dough, which makes it tough. This chocolate crust sounds fine for the dough-averse, and it would go nicely with a cherry filling as suggested, but it's never going to be the kind of rich, flaky crust that complements a peach or apple filling with its taste and texture. Crust is no more a mere vehicle for pie filling than pasta is a vehicle for sauce! Give the homemade crust a few more tries; the saying "easy as pie" wasn't intended to be oxymoronic.

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Bolognese Sauce

I've got to agree with Kenji -- although this recipe sounds good, it does sound more like a version of Italian-American gravy than Bolognese sauce. From the introduction to the recipe in Italian Classics, by the editors of Cook's Illustrated (Boston Common Press, 2002): "Unlike meat sauces in which tomatoes dominate... Bolognese sauce is about the meat, with the tomatoes in a supporting role. Bolognese also differs from many tomato-based meat sauces in that it contains dairy -- butter, milk, and/or cream. The dairy gives the meat an especially sweet, appealing flavor."

I make Bolognese sauce often. My everyday version is based on Marcella Hazan's in the revised edition of Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, and my fancy recipe is from The Complete Book of Pasta by Jack Denton Scott (Galahad Books, 1968). Hazan and Clark both use nutmeg as a key flavor (in small amounts), and they do not brown the meat, either. They also use white wine, not red. And there is NO garlic. Clark adds some mushrooms and chopped chicken liver. Either of these recipes takes about 3 or 4 hours from start to finish. When it's done to my liking, the sauce is salmon-colored. If it's red, I've used too much tomato or too little cream.

Interestingly, the recipe in The Sliver Spoon (touted on its cover as "the bible of authentic Italian cooking") uses butter but no milk or cream. In The Food of Italy, Waverly Root describes Bolognese ragu as "an unctuous blend of onions, carrots, finely chopped pork and veal, butter, and tomato." He adds that ragu is often richer than his description of the basic recipe, and I suspect the richness comes from liberal use of milk and/or cream. I usually use both -- adding milk toward the beginning, after I've taken the redness out of the meat but without browning it, and a bit of cream just before serving.

From Talk

The Most Unhealthy Thing You've Ever Made

Once, when I was in high school (this was around 1967), I decided to make the Sweetest Milkshake Ever. I went through the refrigerator and kitchen cabinets searching for every sweet thing. I put a little bit of each into the blender -- brown sugar, confectioner's sugar, regular sugar, maple syrup, Karo, chocolate syrup, vanilla ice cream. I turned the blender on, poured the results into a glass, and drank it. As I recall, it didn't stay in my stomach longer than 10 seconds. At least I made it to the bathroom in time. World-class dumb!

From Talk

Chefs & Customers Who Linger After Hours

Many years ago, my wife and I flew to London with our 2-year-old (our one and only trip to Europe, alas) and then met some friends at a country inn in Kent. An attraction of the inn was a small but splendid restaurant. Our friends, Nancy and Rob, were stationed in France at the time, and they had ferried their 2 young children and their au pair across the Channel in 2 automobiles to meet us. The inn was our base for exploring the south of England before we returned to France with them. One day, our 2 vehicles were involved in a mishap in a roundabout, in which 1 of the vehicles was rendered inoperable. My wife, Rob, and the au pair used the operable vehicle to return with the 3 children to the inn, and I stayed behind with Nancy to attend to the damaged car and secure a rental car. The mishap occurred late in the afternoon of the Saturday before Easter, which complicated matters considerably because most repair shops were closed for the long weekend. It also was raining. When we finally returned to the inn, it was very late. But the innkeeper was waiting for us, having learned of our predicament from the other members of our group, and he had 2 snifters of Scotch in hand. And then he informed us that he had asked the chef to stay late in order to serve us dinner, long after all the other customers had departed. Twenty-five years later, I have no idea what we ate, but the extraordinary thoughtfulness of the innkeeper still brings tears to my eyes. Perhaps the chef was cursing us (and the innkeeper) all the while, but perhaps not.

From Talk

Good Baguette Recipes

For decades, I've been using the recipe for French bread from the Better Homes and Gardens New Cook Book (1981). I guess this book isn't very new anymore (and I don't know whether this recipe is included in the 12th edition of this cookbook), but I've never felt compelled to search for a different recipe (or to acquire the 12th edition). It makes 2 baguettes. Here it is: In a larger mixer bowl, combine 2 cups of warm water, 2 tsp salt, 2 packages of active dry yeast, and 2 cups of all-purpose flour (out of a total of 5 1/2 to 6 cups). Beat with electric mixer on low speed for 30 seconds, then on high for 3 minutes, scraping sides. Using a large spatula, stir in as much as you can of the remaining flour, which probably will be about 3 cups. Then turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead, adding more of the remaining flour as necessary, until you have a smooth elastic ball. This takes about 10 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball, place it in a large greased bowl, turn it once, and then cover it and allow to rise in a warm place until double, about an hour. Next, punch it down, divide it in half, and let it rest 10 minutes. Meanwhile, grease a baking sheet and sprinkle it with corn meal. Then roll half of the dough into a 15-by-12-inch rectangle. Roll it up tightly from the long side, taper the ends, and tuck them under. Make sure the loaf is sealed well. Place it on the baking sheet, seam side down, and prepare the remaining half of the dough in the same fashion. To produce a nice crisp crust, mix 1 tablespoon of water into 1 slightly beaten egg white and brush the loaves with the egg wash; save the rest of the wash. Let the loaves rise until nearly double, about 45 minutes. Bake in a 375 degree oven for 20 minutes and brush the loaves again with the egg wash. Then continue baking the loaves for an additional 20-25 minutes, making for a total baking time of 40-45 minutes. Allow to cool about 20 minutes before serving.

The 1981 edition of this cookbook also contains an excellent recipe for beef bourguignonne, which pretty much demands a couple of these baguettes.

From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

That's interesting to know that the melon we commonly call a cantaloupe actually is a muskmelon. I had no idea! Then again, I've never willingly purchased one by either name, and I pay them no attention in the store. That's because I developed an aversion at a very early age to the orange-fleshed melon, as it was part of the "healthy breakfast" that my mother used to make me eat before school -- "cantaloupe," oatmeal or eggs, toast, orange juice, milk -- a time of the day when I wasn't interested in food of any kind (because of school-induced anxiety). So I have learned to associate orange-fleshed melons (and oatmeal) with a feeling of impending gastric disaster. Fifty years later, if I'm going to purchase and eat a melon, it is NOT going to have orange-colored flesh. But she meant well.

From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

Ribster, do you recall the kind of melon you received? Pale-green honeydew or orange-ish cantaloupe? Or something else?

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Recent Posts

From Talk

cutting a melon, and melon & prosciutto

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Polls

From Serious Eats

jackalan answered "Hot" to Which Salsa Spicyness Level Do You Prefer?

From Serious Eats

jackalan answered "Apricot" to What's Your Favorite Hamantash Filling?

From Serious Eats

jackalan answered "Cherry" to What's Your Favorite Kind of Pie?

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Quizzes

From Serious Eats

jackalan got 55% correct on How Much Do You Know About New Orleans Food Culture?

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